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When assembling a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred establishments. However, nestled high among these culinary titans is a simple salonu located in a far-flung area of northern London.

A Surprise Recognition

The small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a respected gastronomic guide. This accolade has left the owners completely shocked.

“I’m totally shocked,” remarks a owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their humble shop securing such a prominent spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing spot, has retained much of its original character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking show, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” comments the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the fare, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a succulent consistency.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. As the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic described this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in less syrup than usual, giving it a deeper, toastier and less sickly taste.

Surpassing the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, equivalent tasting menus at high-end establishments can run into many times that figure.

The Philosophy of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not train at elite establishments. “I feel really happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a social life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s success is set to echo outside its own walls. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider importance of this gastronomic achievement.